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Chiles From the North Come with Own Distinct Flavor
Chiles From the North Come With Own Distinct Flavor
Farmers' Markets
by DENISE MILLER
For the ABQ Journal
Because all chile is not created equal -- though most is delicious -- the best way to find your favorite is to visit a farmers' market, taste samples and buy small bags to take home.
That way, if you live in the north, for example, you can compare Alcalde, Chimayó and Velarde chiles. Native chiles develop unique characteristics through years of regional cultivation. Depending on how and where it is grown, each chile tends to have its own taste.
Most of the chile in northern New Mexico is grown on small plots of land like that of farmer Chencho Ochoa, whose four acres of Chimayó chile reach for the sun just a few miles from the famed Santuario. This contrasts with the hundred acre-plus chile fields of southern New Mexico, where most of our state's chile exports are grown.
The small volume of northern-produced chile means most of it is consumed locally, and it tends to be higher priced than the mass-produced, southern varieties.
Variations of everything from the amount of sand in the soil to how much water flows to the roots contribute to artisanal chile that not only looks and tastes different from its southern counterparts, but also, according to experts, is genetically different.
Stephanie Walker, an extension vegetable specialist at New Mexico State University, says DNA tests at the university have shown that northern New Mexico varieties are more similar to those traditionally grown in Mexico.
"We don't exactly know if it was the Spanish or Indians who brought chile to northern New Mexico hundreds of years ago, but the selective breeding of chile by families over generations in an isolated region has created genetically distinct chile," Walker says.
Usually about 5 to 6 inches long, with crinkly skin and a thin wall of chile meat -- unlike the much longer, thicker "Big Jim" -- Chimayó chile is known for a sweetness that complements its fiery flavor.
And when it comes to chile powder, Chimayó chile is orange, not red, when freshly ground, Ochoa says.
Keeping native chile varieties like Chimayó pure isn't always easy. As an openpollinating plant, it runs the risk of cross-pollinating with neighboring varieties and losing its genetic uniqueness.
Ochoa agrees it is a potential problem, but he isn't worried about his crop because he says all of his neighbors grow only the Chimayó variety.
A more pressing problem for small growers like Ochoa who rely on the premium value of their crop are growers who claim to sell Chimayó chile, but who -- at least to an expert -- are not.
"It's very obvious to me when a chile is not from Chimayó," he says.
The best way to preserve the distinctive Old World lines of chile like Chimayó, Alcalde, Velarde, Dixon and those from the pueblos, are to make sure these farmers continue to grow their distinctive crops.
Shoppers may not have a foolproof way to tell where chile is grown, but buying from a grower provides the opportunity to ask questions and usually taste the chile.
From now through mid-October (if it doesn't become too cold) growers will roast and sell chile at farmers' markets in Santa Fe, Los Alamos, Española, Pojoaque, Dixon and Taos.
BASIC CHILE SAUCE
Prep Time: 20 minutes
2 pounds red or green chiles, roasted and skinned (18-25 chiles)
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled
½ teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
Juice of ¼ lime
2 tablespoons oil
1-2 jalapeños seeded (optional)
2 cups water
Blend chiles in food processor until chunky. Add other ingredients and process until smooth. Use immediately or freeze.
-- Adapted from Mexican Food
