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Pepper a Crowd Pleaser
September 8, 2010
Pepper a Crowd Pleaser
Farmers' Markets
DENISE MILLER
For the Albuquerque Journal
Maybe it's a Santa Fe thing, but during the past five years a certain little Japanese pepper -- the shishito -- has gone from unknown to überpopular.
Every Tuesday and Saturday it's easy to spot numerous growers at the railyard market with baskets of the peppers.
After you eat them, these peppers will have a place in your heart. All the best peppers seem to have this magical quality that leaves you craving more. Consider just two examples: Italian frying peppers and chile peppers.
Once you taste a savory shishito, it will join the list.
At three to four inches long with bumpy skin, the mild peppers are packed with flavor that explodes when you blister them in a pan with olive oil and finish them with a dash of sea salt.
They are always a crowd pleaser. The peppers make a perfect summer appetizer for a dinner party, or a quick snack for whoever is lucky enough to be home.
The only thing that may keep your addiction in line is the price of $8 to $10 a pound.
"I love the shapes, colors and flavors of all peppers, and shishitos are kind of unique to Santa Fe," says Danny Farrar of Rancho La Jolla in Velarde, who brings the peppers to the markets he attends.
Farrar grew up farming with his grandfather on the same land where he continues to live and work. His 3½ acres of orchard include apricots, cherries, apples, peaches and plums. He also leases three acres from his cousin to grow vegetables, including spinach, tomatoes, chile, onions, bell peppers, Italian frying peppers and eggplants.
This time of year, Farrar's table is replete with apples, pears, tomatoes, bell peppers, green chile and radishes, in addition to the shishitos. Farrar also sells his pesticide-free crops to Cid's Food Market in Taos and to various restaurants through the Farm to Restaurant project.
Trained as an electrician, Farrar spent many years doing electrical work in Albuquerque and Durango, Colo., but five years ago he started farming full time. He is president of his acequia, the Chicos Ditch in Velarde, and is on the board of the Santa Fe Farmers' Market.
"My brother was burnt out on farming and my mother is 88 years old now, but I always farmed with my grandfather and father. Financially it is not the best business to be in, but I missed it. It is in my blood," Farrar says.
One of his favorite aspects of selling at market is being able to provide WIC moms with fresh produce. "Getting children to eat fresh food is the most rewarding thing," Farrar says of the Women, Infant and Children program that helps low-income women buy fresh produce at farmers' markets statewide.
"It's really important to me to try and keep prices reasonable. I want the middle class to come back to market -- school teachers and everyday people. It needs to be fair for the farmer and the customer," Farrar explains.
Farrar's market table always has plenty of samples for customers to taste. "Once people see how much better local food is, and how fresh it is, they understand. You can get a box of cherries that come from Chile that are one month old, and they look good, but on the inside, the fruit is all broken down," he explains.
BLISTERED SHISHITO PEPPERS
One-half pound of peppers serves two enthusiasts, or four more sparingly.
- Fresh shishito peppers, with stems
- Olive oil (good quality extra virgin)
- Sea salt
Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until not quite smoking hot.
Add the whole peppers in a single layer. Don't crowd them; cook in more than one batch if needed. They need space to brown rather than steam.
Shake the pan and cook the peppers briskly until they blister and puff up -- the skin should be brown rather than black. Spread them on a plate lined with a paper towel to collect excess oil. Sprinkle with sea salt. Grab the peppers by the stems and enjoy.
Featured grower: Danny Farrar, Rancho La Jolla, Velarde
Featured crop: Shishito peppers
Season: Through September or first frost
Where to find him: Farmers' markets in Los Alamos, Santa Fe and occasionally Española
Nutritional value: Like all peppers, shishitos are low in calories and high in vitamin A and C -- powerful antioxidants that help keep your body running strong.
