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Subtleties of Fennel Plentiful
July 30, 2008
Subtleties of Fennel Plentiful
Farmers' Markets DENISE MILLER for the Journal
Vendor tables are becoming significantly more voluminous these days as the summer growers market season heads into its prime. If you look closely between the squash, cucumbers, beans and cilantro, you may even see the versatile vegetable fennel, whose green leafy fronds sometimes cause me to mistake it for dill at first glance.
Just ask the Mendez family, members of which I approached recently when I saw what I thought was dill from across the way. No matter, I was just as glad to see fennel hanging out with their many other farm-fresh delights.
While I used to avoid fennel because I associated it with black licorice (and who wants to cook with licorice, I thought), over the years I've come to appreciate its subtle anise flavor, which can add an extra dimension to your dinner table.
Crushed fennel seeds have a long history in Indian curries and as a component in Chinese five spice. You may also recognize their flavor as a seasoning in Italian sausage, meaty stews and rustic bread. But this hearty perennial is related to parsley, and it's more than just spice. All of its parts from frond to base are edible.
When you get fennel home, don't be confused by its odd shape. Cut the stalks where they meet the top of the bulb, and remove the fronds. Now you can serve the fibrous stalks as you would celery sticks, or add them to a stock, roast or braise.
If you like the more intense flavor of anise, use the fronds in dips or as an aromatic in fish, pork or lamb dishes.
The greenish-white "bulb" at the base is actually not a bulb at all, but tightly stacked leaves that unpack and when cooked become soft like an onion, retaining only a faint hint of anise. This is the part of fennel that offers the most versatile use.
To use the base, cut off the bottom and cut the bulb in half lengthwise, then in quarters. Cut around the tough center core. You will have four even quarters for cooking. The leaves can be grilled or roasted in a number of ways.
Alternatively, to enjoy it raw, once you have removed the top and bottom of the bulb, use a mandoline or sharp knife to slice the fennel into thin slices. These slices are a great addition to a fresh salad.
A fresh fennel bulb will last a few days in the refrigerator. Keep it whole, with stalks on, until you are ready to use it. You should be able to find fennel at many growers markets through August.
A delicate operation
The hardest part about bringing fennel to market for the Mendez family is cleaning it nicely without losing any of the delicate parts.
"We take pride in what we do and make sure it is done right," said Jose Alcantar, son-in-law to Trinidad and Felisa Mendez, who together farm 1½ acres in El Guique, just north of Española.
The Mendez family, originally from Guanajuato, Mexico, grew up farming for themselves and others. Matriarch Felisa said she and her husband like to be outside and grow food, though it takes a lot of work by the whole family to plant, weed, harvest and sell at markets. Her husband works another job from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.; he is often in the fields from 2:30 p.m. until midnight.
Alcantar, born in Mexico and raised in Texas and New Mexico, said he started farming when he was 6 or 7 with his grandfather. Now, after he finishes with his regular day job, he too is an integral part of the Mendez Farm.
"All of our produce is pesticide-free, and we're in the process of getting certified organic," Veronica Mendez-Alcantar said.
FEATURED GROWER: Mendez Produce
WHO: Mendez Produce is Trinidad, Felisa and Luis Mendez; Veronica Mendez-Alcantar and Jose Alcantar
WHERE TO FIND THEM: Santa Fe, Los Alamos, Taos and Pojoaque farmers' markets
FEATURED CROP: Fennel, which has a variety of phytonutrients, including anethole. The primary component of its volatile oil has been shown to reduce inflammation and help prevent cancer in animals. Fennel is also an excellent source of vitamin C, fiber, folate and potassium.
SEASON: Mid-June through August
