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Sweet, Earthy Flavor of Beets Now in Season
August 12, 2009
Sweet, Earthy Flavor of Beets Now in Season
By Denise Miller
For the Albuquerque Journal
I didn't grow up eating beets.
Their slightly sweet, earthy
flavor doesn't exist in my
memory bank.
What initially draws me to beets each market season is their physical beauty. Before they are even washed, their deep red, dusty orange and dark pink roots topped with burgundy-veined green leaves call to me.
After they are scrubbed and cooked with olive oil, they are even more lustrous. Once I start eating them, I'm always surprised by how much I enjoy roots and greens.
During market season, it is fairly easy to find beets across New Mexico from mid-July through October. Look for this nutritious vegetable in regular or golf ball size. The small ones, known as baby beets, tend to be milder and sweeter.
One reason market beets are special is the fresher the beet, the sweeter -- and market produce is always supremely fresh. Likewise, if you choose their healthy greens, nothing "beets" freshly picked.
Beets come loaded with sugar -- more than any other vegetable -- which is logical when you consider they are closely related to sugar beets that are grown commercially for white sugar.
The sweetest, most delicate beets are an old Italian favorite called Chioggia, which are available at many markets. Also known as candy-stripe or bull's-eye, these dark pink beets have bright pink and white stripes inside. They lose their distinctive color when cooked, but grating them into a cold beet salad preserves their beauty.
Preparing beets
Beets can take a long time to cook, so try to choose similar-sized bulbs for even cooking time. They can be boiled and steamed, but baking or roasting results in the sweetest, most intense flavor. Once tender, slice them into salads and side dishes.
Be sure to cut off the stems and leaves, and scrub the beets to remove dirt; if roasting, pat dry.
Their colorful, leafy tops are extremely low in fat and calories, and can be used in any recipe that calls for collards, kale, chard or spinach. Use the leaves within two days of purchase.
I can't say it has been easy getting my kids to fall in love with beets. Only one of three took to them immediately. But I'm not giving up. I still hope that one day they will have pleasant beet memories.
Phil Loomis of Jacona Farms in northern New Mexico combines the earthy taste of beets with a bit of extra sweetness and a spark of pungent fresh fennel in caramelized beets.
Sautéed beet greens with garlic can be tossed with pasta, added to an omelet or risotto, or used in a quiche. Blanching the greens makes them tender and less bitter.
CARAMELIZED BEETS
Serves 4
16 ounces baby beets (2 bunches)
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons chopped fennel or more to taste
3 tablespoons red wine
Wash beets thoroughly under cold water. Cut about a thumbnail over top of beet, and trim bottom of beet. Reserve greens for other use.
Steam beets for about 20 minutes or until slightly tender. Remove from steamer and cut each beet in half.
In a sauce pan over medium heat, sauté beets in butter. After beets are covered in butter, add honey and stir until glazed. Add chopped fennel and cook until fork tender.
Deglaze pan with red wine. Remove from heat and serve.
PER SERVING: 102 calories; 3 g fat (2 g saturated); 8 mg cholesterol; 16 g carbs; 2 g protein; 3 g fiber; 111 mg sodium.
SAUTÉED BEET GREENS WITH GARLIC
The blanched greens will keep in the refrigerator for about 3 days.
Serves 4
1 pound beet greens (2 large or 3 small bunches)
1 tablespoon salt plus dash for later
1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, to taste
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
Ground pepper
2 lemons, cut in wedges (optional garnish)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil while you stem the greens and wash the leaves in two rinses of water. When the water boils, add 1 tablespoon of salt and greens.
Blanch for 2 minutes, until tender. Use a slotted spoon to transfer greens immediately to a bowl of ice water. Drain and squeeze the water from its leaves. Chop coarsely.
Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy nonstick skillet. Add garlic and red pepper flakes.
Cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant and translucent, 30 to 60 seconds. Stir in greens. Stir for a couple of minutes, until greens are nicely seasoned with garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper, remove from heat and serve with lemon wedges.
PER SERVING: 99 calories; 7 g fat (1 g saturated); 9 g carbs; 2 g protein; 4 g fiber; 1,829 mg sodium.
